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Collection Review A/W 20/21




Collection Review A/W 20/21

Men's Trends: Modern Romantic Discover how classic styles are transformed with extravagant detailing and fabrics, updating WGSN's #softmasculinity trend for the new season Ro chas

Collection Review A/W 20/21

Action Points

The wealth of opulent fabrics and extravagant embellishments across the menswear shows points the way towards Holiday and partywear looks for A/W 20/21. Leverage these decadent collections for dressed up but boldly different formal looks, considering sustainable options wherever possible. 1. Embrace the feminine aspect of this trend, as consumers expect more choice than just the 'same old, plain black suit' in favour of new glamour. 2. Textural play is key. Plan by department to ensure the wealth of fabric options are covered. 3. Focus on design details and accessories, as the look isn't really about new shapes and silhouettes. 4. Plug in a few 'known quantity' bestsellers, as long as they're amended to fit the overall look. Colour, fabric, detail, trim; they all need to live within the theme. 5. Consider where print, embroidery or stitch techniques might replace sequins, bugle beads and more from a sustainability point of view. Ro chas

Action Points

Mood

Dramatic styles with a feminine softness JW And er so n N amacheko • As #softmasculinity evolves, an element of #pyjamadressing comes into play, building the story of a male wardrobe with softened edges, glamorous trimmings and a romantic palette • Use the drape of slinky fabrics to change the feel of tailored separates, making shirts sexy and creating languid silhouettes • The overall feel is powerful and sensual, emboldening the wearer to express themselves Jo hn Lawr ence S ullivan Dio r Men Balmain

Mood

Colour

Boudoir shades spell indulgence 036- 89- 06 11- 0701 TCX 047- 91- 00 11- 4800 TCX 015- 81- 06 14- 3803 TCX Ann Demeulemeest er 031- 54- 06 17- 1105 TCX 115- 57- 09 17- 4021 TCX 19- 1420 TCX 19- 1420 TCX 122- 28- 04 Dio r Men 19- 4019 TCX Balmain • While some less traditionally menswear tones are present in the this palette, there are also plenty of familiar shades. It's all about how they are combined and styled • Femininity is influential but it's more important that this palette feels indulgent and expensive • WGSN has charted the #pinksuit and we see tailoring continue to move beyond the confines of the black tuxedo. This story is about being expressive, meaning colourful Holiday and partywear looks N amacheko Coloro / Pantone

Colour

Key Items: Apparel

Fluid shapes and fabrics enable elegant and dramatic formal looks Lo uis Vuit t o n Q asimi • The context of these fabrics is updated and given a modern, androgynous feel, but most aren't alien to men's wardrobes anyway • Velvet, #satin, moleskin and a range of luxurious wools are complemented by lace and sheers such as chiffon • Fluidity is even key to the tailoring fabrics; stiff, unyielding options are not what this story is about Dunhill Palo mo S pain Munn

Key Items: Apparel

Key Items: Footwear

Use extravagant details to finish simple shapes JW And er so n Ro chas H ed May ner Bo d e • Boudoir inspiration is key, with slipper-inspired styles and pumps important • These simple styles are amped up with patent finishes, pussy bows and gold hardware details • The minimal Chelsea boot is a simpler, more commercial option, which forgoes detail for standout fabrics such as red velvet or stone suede Casablanca E d war d Cr ut chley

Key Items: Footwear

Key Items: Accessories

Don't hold back, accessories are key Lo nd o n Ro chas Dio r Men Dio r Men • Given that the core of this look is quite traditional tailoring and coats in glamorous fabrics and colours, accessories are key to push the message, just as they were at Dior • Use velvet and silk effects to update soft accessories. Leather looks feel premium, with hand-painted motifs adding a layer of luxury • Pearls, flower and foliage motifs as well as charm details are must-haves for jewellery Valent ino Dio r Men

Key Items: Accessories

Key Fabric & Details

Daring, exotic elements make this theme shine Ami Alexand r e Mat t iussi Palo mo S pain Balmain • Standout embellishments as well as fabrics such as lace and chiffon are relevant, turning simple shapes into hero pieces • Balmain and Dior choose a maximal look, but the impact of subtle detailing at Rochas is more commercial • Translate this look with print, embroidery, laid-on fabrics and other options before sequins, such as bugle beads, to be more sustainable Ro chas Ro chas

Key Fabric & Details

Key Prints & Graphics

Aim for modern opulence N amacheko Bed J.W. Fo r d Givenchy • Patterns that mimic embellishments or ornate fabrics are key where actual embellishment isn't viable or sustainable • Tap into jewel or interior floral designs as well as textile-inspired micro floral and foliage patterns for a lavish evening or lounge feel • Painterly scenes in romantic shades feel new for knit or cut-and-sew styles 8 o n8 Ro chas

Key Prints & Graphics



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