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t AFI’s recent 15-year celebration at Cape Town Fashion Week, the excellence exhibited by the designers that participated really stood out to me. This includes the young designers who continue to impress me with the quality, construction and beauty of their garments. While AFI has a focus on luxury collections, more of the designers are revealing their flexibility by merging luxury elements with ready-to-wear pieces for market accessibility. Certainly, our Fastrack designers stole the limelight at CTFW, showing just how powerful this programme has turned out to be. While waiting for the opening show, I took a moment to look around and appreciate what AFI has become. At the time, I was sitting in the audience next to the mayor of Cape Town and he turned to me, as if reading my thoughts, to say, “My goodness! This is such a diverse audience!” His words were music to my ears. When I acquired African Fashion International, and when we launched Cape Town Fashion Week at the same Cape Town Convention Centre 15-years ago, the audience, designers and production teams reflected a South Africa reminiscent of our past, devoid of diversity and certainly not inclusive enough. Naturally, this didn’t sit well with me. Included in the AFI mission has been to transform the industry to make sure that it represented the diversity of our country and continent. In that moment, with the mayor, I was filled with pride to see that we have been able to change the face of Cape Town Fashion Week. Over the years, interest in local and continental products has cut across race and class divides that once existed in this industry. Continued efforts to grow and strengthen this platform will certainly preserve, document, and promote cultural shifts on the continent for years to come. Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe AFI Founder and Executive Chairperson www.af ricanfashioninternational.com 3
Dispatches from the CTFW front Row Why African Fashion Weeks are Important Model Interview: Jencey Foje Introducing The Ultimate Gold Collection Autumn Winter 2023 Trend Report Introducing the House of Nala A/W Collection The AFI Masterclass 2023 Report- How To Build a Conscious Fashion Movement in Africa As we packed the final box filled with some of the most luxurious fashion produced in Africa, I smiled. That particular box was filled with garment bags of looks that had been on the Cape Town Fashion Week runway and it felt like a privilege to be even touching them. Introducing the AFI Fastrack Finalists 2023 Power Suiting- How To Get It Right I’ve always believed that experiencing clothing made with the finest fabrics, will make you fall in love with fashion. And then seeing the masterpieces that the designers have created with the fabric, will make you obsessed with fashion. The Importance of African Celebrities Wearing Locally Produced Fashion Working behind the scenes of what was a special CTFW, one where we celebrated the 15 incredible years of AFI’s role in platforming African designers, I got to see just how much work goes into creating these garments, how designers are passionate about these clothes being seen on the right models and for their art to be celebrated. Scan to Shop 10 And that’s what this edition is about- celebrating the beauty and uniqueness of fashion produced in African. I hope you will enjoy the stories we have written, the people we have interviewed, the industry issues we have tackled and also the tips you need to always stay ahead of the fashion curve, in the finest African fashion, of course. 14 18 24 Publisher Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe 35 Editor Buhle Mbonambi buhle.mbonambi@afi.za.com Copy Editor Kamaria Balkinsson Designers Xolisa Sibeko and Sibulele Ndlazi Marketing/ Advertising Roshnee Pillay- Roshnee@afi.za.com HON Issu3_Autumn+Winter ed_V3.indd 1 4 www.africanfashioninternational.com 2023/04/24 11:31 Model: Aisha N (Cover Model Management) Dressed by House of Nala
THABANG MAPOKGOLE The fashion designer and stylist hails from Lesotho Hailing from Makotopong in Limpopo, Thabang is and now resides in South Africa. She has had a a talented individual who thrives as a creative. As varied career, having worked as both an editorial a fashion and retail creative, visual merchandiser, assistant and stylist for various magazines and retail stylist, and creative director he takes pleasure in outlets. She also formed part of the AFI Fastrack being able to express himself through different alumni, and currently runs the House of Nala brand. mediums while telling stories in an array of ways. MEET THE CONTRIBUTORS SIBU NDLAZI RANJI MANGCU XOLISA SIBEKO Living out the saying, “Graphic design is my Ranji is an accomplished fashion writer, researcher Xolisa is a multi-talented graphic and visual artist, passion”, Sibu is a multi-talented designer who and creative. Since her graduation from Central who has worked for renowned advertising agencies excels in graphic design, web design and UX. From Saint Martins, she has developed a passion for in South Africa. He upholds the belief that his her experience at e-commerce platforms and news magazines, 90s and 00s cinema and runway creations should be loud enough to speak for organisations, she is now relishing her job as part of fashion. Her specialty lies in analysing cultural themselves. Currently, Xolisa holds the position of AFI’s in-house graphics team. She describes herself trends at the crossroads of style, luxury, and youth design lead at AFI. as ‘Stunning, Gorgeous and Smart’, and loves culture. fashion in an unironic way. www.af ricanfashioninternational.com 5
Buhle Mbonambi s the fireworks illuminated the Cape Town Fashion Week stage, models and guests clapping in approval, it brought the end of what was a celebration of fashion and the history of African Fashion International. A few moments earlier, fifteen of some of the most storied Pan-African brands had lit the stage, each presenting an iconic garment that told the story of their journey with AFI. The final show of Cape Town Fashion Week featured a spectacular display honouring 15 years of African Fashion International. Models strutted down the runway in garments by 15 of the most prominent designers in Pan-African fashion who have showcased on the AFI platform. These were Gavin Rajah, David Tlale KLûK CGdT, Taibo Bacar, Loin Cloth & Ashes, Habits, MaXhosa Africa, Craig Port, Stefania Morland, Shana Morland, Imprint ZA, Hugo Fleur, Kat van Duinen, Scalo, and Matt Nolim. It was a fitting celebration of 15 Years of AFI and its role in the global fashion industry as a catalyst for change. It also made us think back to the beginning of a company that has done much to make the world aware of what is happening inside Africa’s fashion industry. 6 www.africanfashioninternational.com
t was during John Galliano’s 2006 fashion show for Christian Dior, that Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe had an epiphany. In front of her was an eclectic show, a signature of Galliano. It was one that purported to be inspired by the stories of revered women in European history. As the models glided down the runway, each garment looking outrageously over the top, it dawned on her at that moment that Africa had many amazing stories that needed to be told using fashion as a medium. Watching that specific show, she thought of the many times that the African continent had been used as inspiration for western fashion brands. There were those who told Africa’s stories through a Western lens, used African fabrics and weaving methods. And yet there were many talented fashion designers and creatives in Africa who did not have the platform to showcase to the world just what they were capable of doing. And so began the journey of African Fashion International in 2007. For 15 years, AFI has been a game-changer in the fashion industry. From platforming African fashion to a global audience, changing the narrative of what African luxury is about and showcasing some of the best designers on the continent, AFI has truly left an indelible mark. AFI has been at the forefront of promoting African fashion and aims to showcase the diversity and creativity of African fashion to a global audience. Changing how African fashion is perceived globally, has always been one of AFI’s goals. For too long, Africa was seen as a place with no significant contributions to the global fashion industry. And yet, the continent’s rich cultural heritage and unique aesthetic sensibilities, had inspired Western designers for decades. The birth of AFI Fashion Weeks, namely Cape Town Fashion Week and Joburg Fashion Week, marked a new era for African fashion. The events brought together designers from across Africa under one roof, demonstrating AFI’s commitment to promoting Pan-Africanism within the industry. Moreover, through its various initiatives such as the AFI Fastrack mentorship programme and designer showcases; AFI has provided opportunities for emerging designers in Africa who may not have had otherwise access to such platforms or networks. Many designers, including Thebe Magugu and Rich Mnisi, have since gone on to establish themselves as global brands. Over the years, AFI has become much more than just a company that produces fashion weeks. It is a solution to the global fashion industry’s lack of diversity, providing opportunities for African designers to showcase their talents to a wider audience. As a continuation of our mission, AFI has been able to expose even more Pan-African through our retail channels, House of Nala and the AFI Online Store. www.af ricanfashioninternational.com 7
runways in Paris and New York. AFI has also partnered with Conde Nast and Forbes to bring leaders of international fashion to the continent, to allow them to experience the culture and creativity for themselves. As a result of our efforts over the past 15 years since inception, AFI has earned esteemed recognition such as being named in the BoF 500 for being a catalyst in shaping Africa’s fashion industry. The Future The changing face of African fashion can undoubtedly be attributed in part to AFI, which remains dedicated to promoting excellence within this thriving industry. We are seeing a greater number of designers receiving attention from around the world. As we chart the future and the next 15 years, it is imperative that creatives are taken seriously. This can be done through the enforcement of intellectual property rights, enhancing accessibility to the industry, and through preservation that brings historical significance to collections. At the core, we want to counter the misperceptions that we hold of African art and fashion, while enhancing their long-term investment value. For many of us, our culture provides tremendous intrinsic value. Particularly in South Africa, the arts are considered a driver of healing and social cohesion. Cape Town Fashion Week was as opportunity for AFI to chart a new journey that will take African fashion and designers to greater heights. Returning to Cape Town, a city where appetite for local arts and culture is strongest, was all about making sure that we can make a sizeable economic contribution made to the city – one that we plan to measure and strategically grow over the next 15-years. Read more about AFI 8 www.africanfashioninternational.com
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